As a Greek-American, I’ve spent my fair share of summers enjoying the many facets that Greece has to offer. I’ve been visiting regularly my entire life, spending time in places like Santorini or Crete, but one of my favorites is a little-known town tucked on the southeastern coast of the Peloponnese.
It’s Monemvasia, and I think it offers the ideal spot for a summer vacation or add-on jaunt that doesn’t require another flight or ferry after arriving in Athens. It’s also blissfully free of the crowds and bustle found in the capital, and feels worlds away from the tourist throngs that descend upon the islands.
In Monemvasia, you’ll discover a place that even the locals travel to, with an incredible walled city, wine so famous that even Shakespeare wrote about it, and an up-and-coming rock climbing scene. Here’s how to spend 72 hours in your soon-to-be-favorite Greek city.
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Day 1: Start Slow En Route From Athens
Monemvasia is located about four hours (by car) southeast of Athens. About 75 minutes into your drive from Athens, you’ll cross the narrow world-famous Corinth Canal.
Once over the canal, you’ve officially entered the Peloponnesian region. If time allows, swing by Ancient Corinth for a quick tour of the ruins. The rest of your drive will be filled with beautiful views of olive groves and the many local villages.
Continue on for about three more hours to reach Monemvasia. While you’ll need to pick up a vehicle to get there, once you arrive, there are no cars allowed within the city walls. Instead, you’ll find parking in the “New City,” and you can then walk about 15 minutes on a causeway to the walled city. Alternatively, you could hop on the local bus. Note that the “Old City” refers to the historic walled city, while the “New City” is located on the mainland.
In Monemvasia, you won’t see ancient Greek Classical architecture like you would at the Parthenon. Rather, you’ll find a brilliant fusion of Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman styles. As an entirely walled city, Monemvasia was once a critical trade hub. Therefore, it experienced many cultural influences that are still present today.
If you’d rather slow down and hear the crickets sing on your first day instead of the sounds of boats coming into port, I suggest staying just outside the main drag of Monemvasia at Quattro Suites.
Quattro Suites is an upscale boutique hotel about a 12-minute drive from the city center with views of the town’s fortress. Its minimalist and boho-chic design feels reminiscent of a Cycladic island.
Once settled, start your trip slowly with a dip in the pool or enjoy a meal at the hotel’s on-site spot, The All-Day Restaurant. The portions are huge, fresh, and authentically Greek.
Day 2: Tour the Fortified and Go Wine Tasting
For your first full day, make your way to the Old City to soak up Monemvasia’s deep roots and history.
The Old City is split into two distinct sections: Upper Town and Lower Town. In the Upper Town, you’ll see ruins of homes and the Agia Sophia church. It's quite a hike with little shade to reach the top, so bring sturdy walking shoes and water.
The Lower Town is where you’ll find all the shops, cafes, and hotels that have been effortlessly interwoven with the Byzantine history.
Start in Lower Town, where you’ll find dozens of cafes to fuel up for your day, including Malvasia Café, a local spot on the tip of the fortress that offers a terrace with panoramic views of the surrounding sea.
Then, choose from many guided tours or explore on your own. In the main square of the Lower Town, you can visit the 13th-century Elkomenos Christos Cathedral. A few steps away, you can enter a restored 16th-century Ottoman-era mosque that was converted into the Archaeological Collection of Monemvasia.
If you choose to venture to the Upper Town, you’ll have the opportunity to see the 13th-century Byzantine church, Agia Sofia. If you wish to enter the church, the doors are typically open daily. Of course, this is subject to change, so check the website for visitor info. Also in the Upper Town, you’ll find remnants of the fortified wall and homes, and panoramic views of the Lower Town and the surrounding Myrtoan Sea.
When finished, exit the Old City of Monemvasia and head to the New City. You’ll find many restaurants right along the port that offer great views of the old fortified city. I particularly enjoyed lunch at Akrogiali.
Next, it's time to taste the region’s famous wine at Monemvasia Winery. William Shakespeare famously mentioned Monemvasia’s treasure, Malvasia, a sweet white dessert wine, in “Richard III,” and it’s worth seeing what all the fuss is about. Founded in 1997, the area’s main commercial winery offers guided tours and tastings. I’m not much of a white wine drinker, yet in Monemvasia, I’ve found the taste so perfectly balanced that I love it. Not too sweet, not too dry.
When you’re hungry again, one of my favorite dinner spots is Matoula Restaurant. The restaurant offers staple Greek dishes on an outdoor terrace overlooking the water.
Day 3: Rock Climbing, Swimming, and Drinks With a View
Wake up early and grab breakfast. A reliable spot in the new town for breakfast with a view is 4 Lines All Day Cafe-Bar. Or, grab a hearty breakfast from your hotel.
I then suggest packing a lunch so you can get lost in nature. A highlight of the greater Monemvasia region is its up-and-coming rock climbing scene. About an hour and a half north of Monemvasia, you’ll find the Kyparissi Rock Climbing Area. According to Climb Greece, experienced climbers will find more than 200 bolted routes in the area. This is an isolated area, so only experienced climbers should venture out to these routes on their own.
After climbing, one of my favorite things to do is jump in the water. Back in Monemvasia, there’s a small spot along the causeway to the Old City. Often unmarked on maps, simply follow the directions to the Almi Guesthouse, and you’ll see the swim spot next to it. There’s a platform, a ladder to get in the water, and large rocks to sit on while soaking in the views. Alternatively, you can rent sunbeds at the pebble and sand Xifias Beach.
You might also consider a jaunt to the island of Elafonisos. Just an hour south of Monemvasia, visitors can drive their car onto a ferry for a quick 10-minute ride to reach it. Once there, you’ll have the opportunity to enjoy Simos Beach and the many cafes and restaurants around the island.
Later, head back to the old town of Monemvasia for your final dinner. Kanoni focuses on Peloponnese cuisine, which is typically characterized by lots of olive oil and the famous Kalamata olive, as well as sun-dried produce and cured meats.
This romantic spot is perfectly nestled within historic architecture, making you feel like you’ve stepped back in time as you enjoy your meal. After dinner, head to Emvasisa Cafe for a cocktail on their stunning rooftop terrace.
The Shortcut
Monemvasia is a historic Byzantine-era fortress town on the southeastern coast of the Peloponnese that offers a blend of Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman influences. It's a 4-hour drive from Athens, no extra flight or ferry required.
The ideal 72-hour itinerary includes exploring the car-free walled city, wandering the Upper and Lower Towns, and enjoying traditional Greek cuisine at local restaurants overlooking the sea.
The region's famous Malvasia wine predates the winery: Shakespeare referenced it in Richard III. Monemvasia Winery offers guided tours and tastings.
The greater Monemvasia area offers opportunities for swimming and trying out the growing rock-climbing routes.
