Young Taylor Swift and Carrie Underwood notwithstanding, country music is not my cup of tea.
Yet, that hasn’t managed to keep me away from visiting Nashville, which just so happens to be the country music capital of the world.
Musical preferences aside, the city has much to offer a city slicker like me with great nightlife, an exploding culinary scene, along with dynamic walkable neighborhoods to explore, such as 12 South and Wedgewood-Houston. I know so many Millennials who have moved there in recent years, attracted by the high quality of life, lower cost of living compared to coastal cities, and no state income tax.
Nashville International Airport (BNA) is also one of the fastest-growing airports in the country, and the city’s central location is less than five hours by plane from anywhere in the continental United States.
I’ve visited several times this past year alone because I like it so much, and if you’re considering a visit but don’t fancy country tunes, follow my lead with this three-day guide to see everything else Nashville has to offer.
Day 1: Food and Finery
Whether you prefer five-star glamour or a quirky boutique hotel, Nashville has a plethora of hotels for all personalities. Four Seasons Nashville is the most elegant and glamorous option with a new Italian restaurant and rooftop pool, while the pet-friendly 1 Hotel Nashville is a relaxing urban oasis full of greenery, with an excellent spa and fitness center.
If you go with the latter, I highly recommend the stretching massage on a Higher Dose PEMF mat, and then request a ride to dinner in 1 Hotel’s fully electric Audi e-tron house car, which is always readily available to whisk you off to your next stop.
Once you’re settled, plan your first day around what to eat. If you’re arriving later in the day, be sure to plan ahead for the toughest reservation in town at The Catbird Seat, a 24-seat U-shaped chef’s counter serving an ever-changing tasting menu. This is a fun spot to dine solo, chatting with chefs Tiffani Ortiz and Andy Doubrava as they prepare each course in front of you, like a buttery poached omelette with koji-hot-sauce-spiked beurre blanc.
Then, get a nightcap at sister cocktail bar The Patterson House next door, also in the Bill Vorhees Building. Locals are friendly and it’s easy to chat up strangers.
Day 2: Sweets and Souvenirs
Sleep in and start the day with pastries and coffee at Sally’s Stay Awhile in the trendy Wedgewood-Houston neighborhood. Grab a croissant, doughnut, or muffin from the pastry case accompanied by locally roasted Crema Coffee, or sit down for croissant waffles and breakfast fried rice.
You’ll want to fuel up for a day of shopping. New boutiques, bars, and galleries are popping up in this neighborhood all the time. I was stunned to stumble upon an Hermès store next to Soho House on my last visit. But for something more wallet-friendly, Houston Station is an enclave of boutiques, galleries, and coffee shops, and Savas was my favorite fashion find for sexy suede jackets, boots, and accessories. Then, swing by Poppy & Peep, an artisan chocolate micro-factory run by a father-daughter duo, for a sweet souvenir.
Nashville is also the birthplace of the Goo Goo Cluster, America's first combination candy bar, a chunky disc of chocolate, caramel, nougat, and roasted peanuts. The flagship store is just off Broadway, walking distance from most hotels, where I made my own custom Goo Goo Cluster with bourbon caramel and pretzels and enjoyed a spirits and chocolate bonbon pairing.
After a day of shopping and snacking, know that you can partake in the city’s music scene without setting foot into a country bar.
Indeed, the city’s robust offerings branch out wide, and my favorite hangouts include Rudy’s Jazz Room for strong cocktails and soulful jazz, and The Basement for an eclectic lineup of local artists and well-known acts, with different food trucks parked outside every weekend.
Day 3: Artsy Appeal
Save the last day for soaking up some cool culture.
There’s the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, though as a non-fan, I admittedly hadn’t heard of most of the artists.
If you’re like me, just a half mile away, the Frist Art Museum might be more your speed, with new exhibitions every few months, from modern and contemporary Indigenous art to an International Surrealism exhibition from the collection of Tate UK.
Next, find more art in the form of colorful public murals at 12 South, an eight-block concentration of great shopping and food. See if you can find my favorite murals: Looking Pretty Music City by Emily Eisenheart and a larger than life wildflower garden.
And if you didn’t find a local souvenir yet, peruse classic Southern fashion at Reese Witherspoon's Draper James flagship, or made-in-America denim and screen-printed tees at Imogene + Willie where you can even get custom chainstitch embroidery.
Then, toast to a great trip with dinner at Locust, which is only open Friday through Sunday, and everything on the concise menu is meant to be shared. Beef tartare handrolls come with cute comic instructions for how to eat, and the kakigori shaved ice is ethereally light.
The Shortcut
Rudy's Jazz Room and The Basement offer eclectic live music without a hint of country.
The Catbird Seat is a 24-seat chef's counter with one of the hardest reservations in Nashville. Book before you do anything else.
Four Seasons Nashville is the most glamorous option in the city, while 1 Hotel leans into wellness with a spa, greenery, and a house electric car for getting around.
Don't miss the Frist Art Museum for rotating exhibitions, the Goo Goo Cluster flagship for a custom candy bar, and Houston Station for boutique shopping.
