Slow travel is an increasingly popular way to make the journey as exciting as the end destination itself.
Trains are particularly well suited to this type of travel, especially in Sweden, where you can ride the rails for 18 hours en route to Narvik, Norway, in the Arctic. Along the way, you wake up to Sweden’s northern landscapes, passing through small villages in between great swaths of dreamy scenery.
I’ve taken this journey twice; the first time was the full 18 hours from Stockholm to Narvik. The second was a shorter leg, jumping on at Abisko and taking the last leg to Narvik.
Both times I was on a mission to chase the Northern Lights and embrace the magic of an Arctic winter. And while this route is offered year-round, I’d encourage everyone to experience an Arctic winter at least once, and ideally by a scenic train ride such as this one. There’s truly nothing like it. Here’s what it was like.
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Where Railway History Meets the Arctic Landscape
Operated by SJ, the 18-hour Arctic Circle train ride from Stockholm to Narvik takes you on an 845-mile train ride through Swedish forests, rugged tundra, and the Scandinavian Mountains, before arriving at the port city of Narvik, Norway.
There are 25 stops along the way, allowing passengers to explore some of the more remote areas with opportunities like hiking or skiing. Major stops include Uppsala, Sundsvall, Boden, Kiruna, and Abisko, among others. The portion of the trip north of Boden includes a stretch of track called the Iron Ore Line, which connects Luleå, Sweden, on the Gulf of Bothnia, with Narvik, Norway, on the North Sea. This railway was completed in 1903 to bring iron ore from the mines around Kiruna to the two ports at either end of the line, and it’s still used today.
If the full 18 hours feels like too much of a commitment, feel free to hop off in one of these towns to spend the night and catch the train the next day. While off the train, you might explore Kiruna’s mining history, Abisko National Park, or spend a night at the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi. This can also be an ideal way to pack a lot in without renting a car abroad.
Your Home for the Night: The Sleeper Car
The train departs from Stockholm Central Station around 6 p.m. Once onboard, an attendant will come around to check tickets and passports.
There are several ways to sleep onboard the SJ Night Train, ranging from budget-friendly options to private suites. The Sleeping Compartment 1 Class is a private cabin with an en-suite shower, toilet, and breakfast included. The Sleeping Compartment 2 Class offers three beds and can be booked for a private cabin or shared with other travelers, with a shared shower and toilet on the carriage. Then there’s Couchette 2 Class, which is the most budget-friendly with six beds in each cabin and a shared shower and toilet. Or, for the ultimate budget option, the Seating Compartment 2 Class has seating in an open saloon that has electrical outlets at each seat, and toilets in the carriage.
Since I’m not a fan of sharing small spaces with strangers as a solo female traveler, I booked a private cabin in the Sleeping Compartment 2 Class.
I had more than enough space for myself and my carry-on, plus a sink and a window to take in those beautiful views. Depending on how large (or small) your party is, the six-bed couchette can be a good family-friendly option.
Wi-Fi is available for most of the ride, though it may get patchy as the train travels farther north into more remote locations. I never experienced any outages longer than a few minutes, and was able to work and scroll as normal.
Waking Up in the Far North
After my night on board the train, I awoke and grabbed a coffee from the bistro carriage and enjoyed a leisurely morning as we rode into the Arctic.
The train doesn’t arrive in Narvik until around 12:30 p.m., so you still have plenty of time on the train after you wake up. My cabin had a window, but I chose to stand outside by the large windows that run the length of the carriage.
As you cross over the Arctic Circle, the landscape truly transforms. There is no announcement for the actual crossing; you’ll need to track yourself on a map app to know when you’re getting close. The same goes for crossing into Norway. That crossing is actually inside of a tunnel, and if you’re quick enough, you can snap a photo.
Watching Sweden’s Landscape Transform
The train makes several stops on its way to Narvik, and some of them are long enough (15 to 20 minutes) to get off the train and stretch your legs. Announcements are made at every station so you know how long each stop will be.
It’s not long enough to run into town, but it is sufficient for snapping a few selfies and walking along the platform to breathe in the air and views.
While the entire 18-hour train ride is worth your while, the final stretch from Abisko to Narvik has some of the most impressive views. This is where you’ll cross through the Abisko Alps, hugging Lake Torneträsk before catching incredible views of Rombakfjord and Ofotfjord and arriving in Narvik.
Arriving in Arctic Narvik, Norway
Once the train arrives in Narvik, you can head north to Tromso, west to the Lofoten Islands, or return south to explore coastal cities like Bodø, Trondheim, or Bergen.
If you’d rather fly back, the closest major airport is the Harstad/Narvik Airport (EVE), which takes about an hour via bus. That bus ride is also incredibly scenic. Pro tip: sit on the driver's side for the best views.
The Shortcut
Sleeping arrangements run from an open seating car to a private cabin with its own shower, so the trip scales to whatever you're willing to spend.
Some station stops run 15 to 20 minutes. Long enough to get out and stand in Arctic air and take a few photos.
If 18 hours straight sounds like a lot, get off partway. Kiruna, Abisko, and the Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi are all reachable from stops on the line.
