Aix-en-Provence is a bullet train and a world away from Paris. With its open-air markets, walkable cobblestone streets, and cafe culture, the university city is a destination in its own right.
The entire surrounding region is also particularly formidable for foodies, from an art-center turned cafe that hosts fabulous dinner parties to a sculpture hike on rolling acres of a wine estate. It’s the longtime locale of those animated by their joie de vivre, from Julia Child to Paul Cézanne, and as such, it’s a can’t-miss destination for gourmands and art lovers alike.
After spending 4 weeks in the Provence region, I left feeling inspired, thanks in part to these six places. Here’s where to go to scratch below the pastoral pleasantries and discover the unforgettable.
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Gallifet
Gallifet wears many hats. It’s an art center, garden restaurant, gallery, accommodation, and event curator all in one.
Under the summer sun, Gallifet's courtyard blossoms into an open-air restaurant, Gallifet Kitchen. Keep a close eye on their events page as Gallifet often collabs with local creatives to host curated pop-up dinners and workshops.
At the very least, book a lunch reservation inside the seasonal courtyard and take in the latest installation at the Gallifet Art Center. It can be easy to miss the considered gallery that anchors the courtyard opposite the art center, but it’s worth a peek. I happened to find my trip’s best souvenir in the gallery: a painting of Cavaillon melons by French chef-turned-painter, Johanna Solal.
Weekly Flea Markets
Provence conjures up images of fresh produce markets, sun-ripe tomatoes tossed casually into a wicker bag. And it’s also a convenient reality.
While the daily farmers markets at Place Richelme are a Provencal staple, you’ll want to leave extra room in your suitcase for the thrice weekly Textile, Craft, and Antiques Market.
On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, you can find veritable treasure among the antique dealers. Complete your Euro summer look with linen clothing, leather goods and aforementioned wicker bags. The bold can bargain at some stalls, but come prepared with cash and attempt French. Even if you aren’t exactly fluent, the effort is recognized.
Chateau La Coste
Another Jacques of all trades, Chateau La Coste is a decorated wine estate that moonlights as an art and architecture walk.
Located in the countryside town of Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade (about 40 minutes from Aix-en-Provence ), you’ll find installations from a prolific lineup of artists that spans Yoko Ono to Alexander Calder, and hiking the estate is a fever dream of captivating, large-scale art. Return to the womb in Mater Earth (2022), a 90-foot interactive work by French artist, Prune Nourry.
Word to the wise, wear comfortable shoes and leave 2 to 3 hours to meander the sprawling sculptural labyrinth.
Then, cool off post-hike with a plein air lunch at Tadao Ando Restaurant, best paired with a glass of the estate’s award-winning rosé. When booking your reservation, request a table outside overlooking the palatial fountain. The Chateau makes for an ideal trip if you're spending a few days in Aix.
Café Caumont
While you can't actually stay at the Hôtel de Caumont, a stop at the Cafe Caumont is a must.
Once a private residence, Hôtel de Caumont reimagined itself as an art center and restaurant. Like something out of a Fragonard painting, the color-drenched, French Regency dining room overlooks hedges that have been extraordinarily trimmed into the shape of a fleur-de-lis.
Walk-in for an afternoon coffee and calisson, the marzipan-melon pastry the region is known for. After a spot of caffeine, linger a little longer on a fountain-side bench, the perfect perch for pondering life.
Visitors can also tour the adjacent Caumont Center d'Art, which hosts a rotation of exhibitions from French greats like Toulouse-Lautrec.
Terre Ugo
The Provence region is famous for rolling lavender fields that bloom brilliantly toward the end of June into mid-July.
But don’t just buy a dried lavender sachet at a perfumery gift shop and call it a day. Instead, immerse yourself in the lavender haze at Terre Ugo, a family-run farm that invites visitors behind the scenes.
From picnics in the fields to soap making, you can book an experience with Terre Ugo’s packages. My husband was a big fan of the soap-customization workshop, in which you carve lavender soap all while overlooking the lavender-dotted horizon.
Thursday nights in summer, Terre Ugo is the place to be in Provence, check their website for the latest on their Apéros d'Ugo series.
Caudalie Spa at Place St Honoré
In-the-know beauty fiends know that French skincare regulators don’t play about quality, and French pharmacies are actually the best place to pick up some practical souvenirs. Keep your eyes peeled for the glowing green arrows that mark the outsides of one, leading directly to affordable, quality products.
For a splurge, Caudalie is a pharmacy favorite brand, or you might pop into their Aix spa-boutique for further pampering.
That’s precisely what I did as a birthday present to moi. I treated myself to a facial at this location, and while my combination-skin is not easily impressed, this service left me glowing. I am continually inspired by French cosmetic ingenuity and still think about that facial in Provence to this day.
The Shortcut
Aix has a walkable center, but the region doesn't. Rent a car for the days you're heading out of town.
Château La Coste is the one real day trip here, about 40 minutes from Aix. It's worth a fully day, so don't try to cram too much in when planning your itinerary.
Skip the perfumery gift shop. The Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday antiques market is where you can buy linen and leather goods, and a French pharmacy is the best spot for skincare you can't get at home.
