Getting away from the grind of Los Angeles is so simple, it's genius. All you have to do is head the 22 miles "across the sea" southwest of Long Beach and suddenly you're in a place with brisk sea air, very few cars and a lovely slow way of doing things.
That place is Catalina Island (officially, Santa Catalina Island), and it feels as if you’ve been whisked off to somewhere far away, especially in Avalon, its main city, where everything is just an easy stroll away from the water.
Golf carts are common as people mostly arrive via ferry (either the Catalina Express or the Catalina Flyer) while some show up via helicopter, or on a private or chartered boat.
No matter how you get there, Catalina's still got just enough edge to be cool, hearkening back to its heyday in the Big Band era, when thousands of Angelenos poured onto the island every weekend to swing dance to Benny Goodman or Artie Shaw's famous bands at the Catalina Casino.
For an easy weekend or even longer stay, Catalina today is a little jewelbox, filled with unexpected surprises. Here are some reasons why everyone, Angelenos included, should visit at least once.
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Avalon's Small-Town Charm
Perched on a crescent-shaped beach, Avalon has been welcoming visitors from California's mainland since 1887.
These days, it retains its small-town charm with an added bit of oomph, with luxury hotels, fine dining, a lively bar scene, and some adventure thrown in, too. It's the main draw of the two towns on the island where you can find everything from beach clubs to zip lines, horseback rides, and scuba dives. Ferries arrive from Long Beach, San Pedro, Dana Point, and Newport Beach and typically take an hour to hour and a half.
The top hotels are small gems, like the Mt. Ada, the elegant home of the island's former owner, William Wrigley, Jr., of chewing gum fame. Perched on a hill above the beach and with only six rooms and the best views in town, it's seriously spectacular.
Down at the shoreline, the historic Edgewater Hotel is a charmer, while the larger Avalon Hotel has a pretty rooftop with views to the mainland.
Catalina Is a Foodie Paradise
If dining and drinking mean time well spent to you, then Catalina can't be beat.
Hop off the ferry, check in your bags at your hotel, and let the eating and imbibing begin. Bar hopping is a legendary pastime in Avalon, where places like Luau Larry's tiki bar have kept people like me partying on Crescent Avenue (the main drag on the beach) since 1988, serving up the island's favorite libation, the Buffalo Milk cocktail. Named after the famous buffalo herd that roams the backcountry, it's a cocktail lover's delight. The bar also serves fresh seafood and have a live band on weekend nights.
Meanwhile you can hope for karaoke stardom at El Galleon on Friday and Saturday nights. And all week long there's DJ-fueled dancing at The Chi Chi Club, going late most nights of the week.
Two high-end seafood places, the Avalon Grille and the Bluewater Grill, compete for the best views and freshest bounty from the ocean, while more casual spots like The Lobster Trap, The Sandtrap, and The Pancake Cottage are places with hearty, delicious dishes. Everyone has a bar, but remember, no to-go cups are allowed on the beach or when strolling the waterfront in Avalon.
Outdoor Adventures Galore on Catalina Island
If you're like me, you don't head out to Catalina to just hang out all day. With its Mediterranean climate, this is an island that brings playing to a new level.
I love scuba diving, and while the water here can be chilly, there's a lot to see, including kelp forests, Garibaldi fish, bat rays, and even leopard sharks. If snorkeling is more your speed, try the protected Casino Dive Park, reachable by a stone ladder.
Catalina Divers Supply can help with tanks and gear, mask and fins, and there's even a glass-bottom boat for those who don't want to get wet.
Land adventures near Avalon include the Catalina Zipline Eco Tour, which zooms you high across canyons with the ocean for a view. It's an exhilarating ride, although I may have gripped that handhold a bit too tight while looking down 600 feet to the ground.
A bit more down to earth, but scary in a different way is the Falconry Experience, where you'll stand with a hawk, falcon or owl on your arm, let it go, and call it back. If you love birds of prey, it's truly thrilling.
You can also rent bicycles for an adventure into the hills above the bay, or take a horseback ride through the canyons.
Two Avalon Icons: The Catalina Casino and Descanso Beach Club
The Catalina Casino is the well-recognized structure that juts out on the north side of Avalon Bay, opened in 1929.
A "casino" in the Italian sense of the word, it’s a gathering place that has never had gambling. Instead, it is an Art Deco wonder, with a massive circular ballroom used for dancing to live bands (and often roller skating, too), the Avalon Theatre that shows Hollywood classics on the big screen, and huge murals throughout. Take a tour to learn more about the fascinating history, or just check the events schedule for happenings while you're visiting.
You can also meander past the Casino to the Descanso Beach Club, located on one of the few private beaches in California.
Book ahead to reserve two chaise lounges with an umbrella, or go big with a cabana and plan to stay from morning until 5 p.m., when the beach closes.
Summertime means DJs spinning on the weekends, and all year round there's food and beverage service and the inviting ocean just steps through the sand.
The Little Village on Catalina's Quiet Side: Two Harbors
Two Harbors is the small village on the northeast side of Catalina, where hardy campers like to get away from it all.
There's one campground near the village and others that are only accessible by hiking in, located along the 38.5 mile Trans-Catalina Trail that leads all the way to Avalon.
For more comfort, the Banning House Lodge offers both 12 bedrooms and two villas. There's one restaurant, Harbor Reef Restaurant & Saloon, for dinner and another, West End Galley, for breakfast and lunch. It's a quiet place, reached by ferry from San Pedro, which takes just over an hour.
But don't be surprised to find a bit of a crowd here, as there are plenty of boat moorings in Two Harbors. This makes it a popular getaway spot for private sailboats to spend a night or two. It’s also where the island's famous bison began to roam when brought here (and left here) for a movie shoot in the 1920s.
The Shortcut
The ferry takes about an hour from Long Beach or San Pedro, and you can't bring a car. You'll have to rent a golf cart to get around, but it's walkable.
Avalon is the pick if you want food and nightlife within walking distance of your hotel. Tiki bars and seafood options line Crescent Avenue, and the Casino ballroom sits at the end of the waterfront.
Two Harbors is for the outdoorsy crowd. It's quiet with minimal food options, a campground, and a 38.5-mile trail that stretches the island.
