Each Hawaiian island has its own unique draw, but the Big Island has my heart, namely for Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.
The park is famous for hiking, but when I visited, I was struck by how much I could experience from the driver’s seat. There are just two main routes linking most major sights, which makes it easy to see most of it while hopping in and out of the car.
And there’s no compromise on scenery by skipping a hike. All along the drive, I witnessed volcanic craters, black lava fields, and wide-reaching ocean vistas.
Seeing the park by car is also a good choice if you’re short on time like I was (I had one day on my first visit, and I've been back many times since), don’t fancy yourself a hiker, or just want to see a little bit of everything all at once.
Plus, this road trip is simple to navigate without a guide, with plenty of flexibility and ample reasons to stop no matter which way you go. Here’s what you need to know.
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Two Roads Cover a Lot of Ground
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is my favorite spot to visit on the Big Island of Hawai’i and is most easily accessed through the town of Volcano, on the island’s southeast side.
If you’re visiting from the city of Kona, you can expect about a 2-hour drive to the park gate, while the other main hub of the island, Hilo, is about 50 minutes away.
While the park protects 550 square miles of land, most sites are concentrated around two main routes: Crater Rim Drive and Chain of Craters Road.
Crater Rim Drive is 5.6 miles long and explores the Kīlauea summit area, while Chain of Craters Road runs 18.8 miles down to the Pacific.
While those might seem doable, just remember to give yourself much more time than the official mileage suggests.
For instance, it took me several hours to drive Chain of Craters Road, simply because I was stopping for photos every mile or so. However, the roads are paved and well maintained, so this is an easy rental-car outing.
Start at Crater Rim to See the Kīlauea Caldera Sights
Start at the visitor center to check out their event schedule. Lectures, arts and culture activities, and volunteer projects are often available, usually on a daily basis. I personally really enjoyed the Explore The Summit walk, which provides a helpful introduction to the geology of the area (trust me, there’s a lot to learn!)
Your next stop should be pulling onto Crater Rim Drive. I like doing the west side first before heading east, as the east end drive eventually connects to Chain of Craters (and, as you backtrack, you can quickly pop back into the visitor center if need be).
My favorite spots along Crater Rim Drive include Wahinekapu (Steaming Bluff) and the steam vents. There, you can see hot vapor rising from cracks in the ground that’s been heated by the nearby volcano. To me, it really provides a sense of the volcano’s power, but in a safe way.
Next, head to Kīlauea Iki Overlook, at the beginning of the east side, for a dramatic view into the crater. The scene might remind you of something from a movie, as you’ll likely see volcanic smoke, unusual plants, and evidence of past eruptions.
There’s also the Nāhuku lava tube, just down the road, which is a 500-year-old cave where lava once flowed. With its slimy wet walls and echoey sounds, it will be a hit with kids. Though I loved it mostly for the stately ferns growing at the entrance and exit.
Take Chain of Craters Road to the Coast
As much as I like Crater Rim, if you only have time for one drive on your road trip, make it Chain of Craters Road.
While both routes are beautiful, I prioritize Chain of Craters because it truly feels like an outer-space landscape with its stark volcanic terrain. There’s also a nice bonus “reward” at the end: a front-row seat to the Pacific. It’s humbling to see the power of nature as you pass multiple lava fields, evidence of decades of eruptions.
There are also plenty of options to take short walks without requiring a serious hike.
The trek to visit the Puʻuloa's petroglyphs is my personal must-see. This is Hawai’i’s most extensive petroglyph field, containing 23,000 petroglyph images, carved on a 500- to 550-year-old lava field. They’re well preserved, as they’re carved into stone in a very dry area, and offer insights into ancient Hawaiian traditions.
You’ll reach the end of Chain of Craters Road not long after the petroglyphs (a road which used to be much longer before lava had its way with it). There is space at the end of the road where visitors can park and enjoy the spectacular ocean views before heading back to take in the scenery from a different perspective.
Plan Fuel for Yourself and Your Car
There’s no fuel for sale in the park, a situation I found stressful when my gas gauge started sinking. Don’t repeat my mistake and be sure to fill up your tank before you start the day. Thankfully, there are several gas stations in the community of Volcano, including some very close to the park entrance.
While you’re at it, think about packing your own fuel before heading on this road trip as well. The Volcano House, a unique Hawaiian hotel, offers the park’s only dining and accommodation option, and reservations are essential whether you plan to sleep or simply eat here.
Meanwhile, filtered rainwater, available outside the visitor center’s gift shop, is your only option for beverages (apart from the hotel bar, that is). I can personally attest to how delicious and refreshing this water is and, if you’re keen for a souvenir from your visit, metal water bottles are available for purchase at the gift shop. I heartily recommend buying one, as I still have mine from my very first visit to the park. It’s my most used travel souvenir ever.
Keep an Eye on Conditions
Conditions can change quickly here, especially with the concerns over volcanic eruptions.
Before arriving at the park, check the website for any road closures, volcanic activity, inclement weather, and safety information.
Hawai‘i Volcanoes extends from sea level to 13,681 feet and encompasses the summits and rift zones of two active volcanoes. That means interesting weather and plenty of it.
The weather can range from freezing cold to blistering hot, usually on the same day, with plenty of wind and rain thrown in for good measure. Sometimes, there’s even snow.
At the summit, for instance, it may be up to 15 degrees cooler than sea level. Needless to say, I was grateful for my vehicle’s air conditioning and also its heat vents.
If you’re keen to combine the drive with hiking, I recommend September. That’s when you get all the mildness of summer but with fewer crowds. However, there are no weather guarantees at any time of year here.
The Shortcut
Only have time for one drive? Chain of Craters. It's the longer of the two, and it ends at the Pacific.
No gas in the park, no food outside one hotel restaurant, and one water source. Fill up in Volcano on your way in.
The best thing on either road is a petroglyph field, and getting to it costs you a short walk, not a hike.
Check the park site the morning you go. Volcanic activity closes roads with no notice.
Buy the metal water bottle at the visitor center gift shop. The filtered rainwater is the sleeper highlight of the trip.
