If your idea of a good time in Philadelphia involves waiting in line to see the Liberty Bell, or running up the Rocky Steps with a cheesesteak in hand and “Eye of the Tiger” playing in your ears, you’ll hear no judgment from me.
But as someone who has lived in Philly for close to half a decade, trust me when I say that America’s former capital has so much more to offer, from world-class food and drink to art and nature.
And, yes, an unrivaled sports culture.
Here’s how I’d recommend spending three days in Philly to veer off the tourist track without missing the highlights.
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Day One
Check into Yowie Hotel, an effortlessly cool, invisible-service boutique spot from Philly’s design queen Shannon Maldonado, in a prime location on South Street. The artsy strip is known for Philly institutions like Jim’s Cheesesteaks and Philadelphia Magic Gardens, a glimpse inside the world of late mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar, whose tiled work can be found all over the area.
Once you’re settled, and after popping into Yowie’s well-curated shop downstairs, make your way to Old City for a little American history.
Start with a stroll down Elfreth’s Alley, which is the country’s oldest continuously inhabited residential street, then bypass the crowds at Independence Hall (worth the trip only if you’re a real history buff) and go to Carpenters’ Hall instead. While it’s primarily known as the site of the First Continental Congress in 1774, the building, constructed in 1770, is also a wonderful example of Georgian architecture and a late work of the Scottish master builder Robert Smith.
While you’re in the area, order a smoothie from the upscale market Riverwards Produce, which easily rivals the famous offerings at Beverly Hills' Erewhon. Then go boutique-hopping, making stops at stationery shop Omoi Life Goods and clothing store Vagabond.
To end the night, book a table at the Japanese-American lounge Almanac for pre-dinner drinks before heading north to Fishtown for dinner at one of the neighborhood’s dining destinations. Standouts include Kalaya, Suraya, Bastia, and Emmett. The area is full of bars, but if you want a night cap without the hangover, Bar Palmina pours Philly’s most inventive zero-proof cocktails.
Day Two
Start the day with an orange-cardamom morning bun and seasonal Danish at my favorite bakery, Machine Shop, while simultaneously grabbing coffee at Two Persons right next door. Both are housed in the Bok Building, a former school-turned-multipurpose building.
Then, walk to Rival Bros.’ East Passyunk location if you need more caffeine. While in the area, you can people-watch at East Passyunk landmark, the Singing Fountain, before some shopping in the independent business-filled neighborhood.
I like to stop into the sustainable general store Good Buy Supply for environmentally conscious goods, as well as the bookshop A Novel Idea for a mix of best-sellers and titles from local authors. If you brought the kids, toy emporium Tildie’s Toy Box and secondhand non-profit Lilypad Thrift are both fun places to look for a unique souvenir.
For lunch, enjoy wine and French-ish nibbles at Supérette. Or, for something more substantial, head to the Italian Market, the country’s oldest open-air market and a melting-pot of international cuisine. I highly suggest the award-winning Cambodian fare found at Mawn. Leave room for cannoli though, specifically from Isgro Pastries, a South Philly institution since 1904. Then, shop for kitchenware at Fante’s, a new cookbook at Binding Agents, and pantry treats at Di Bruno Bros.
For dinner, get cemitas, tacos, and aguachile at the Michelin Bib Gourmand spot, El Chingon, before catching a Phillies, Flyers, Sixers, or Eagles game. Win or lose, there’s nothing like a Philadelphia sports experience.
Keep the party going with live music at Bob and Barbara’s Lounge, or, if you’re visiting in the warmer months, drinks with a view at rooftop bar Bok Bar.
Day Three
Start with breakfast at the French bistro Parc, which is a local favorite in Rittenhouse Square for their legendary walnut-cranberry loaf. Whatever you order, don’t leave without trying a hunk from the free bread basket.
Then, walk through the park en route to the charming Barnes Foundation, where you’ll find art from the likes of Van Gogh, Renoir, and Picasso. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is also worth visiting if you have time. It’s always fun to enter via the Rocky Steps, but pass the tourists waiting for photos with the Rocky Statue.
Or, if you’re into sculptures, pop into the Rodin Museum to see an impressive collection of the sculptor’s work in a beautiful setting, with a Parisian-style garden. If you fancy more time outdoors and have a car, find 50-plus miles of hiking trails in northeast Philly’s Wissahickon Valley Park.
Finally, after a day of art and nature, relax over drinks and dinner back in Rittenhouse Square.
I like the expertly crafted cocktails at The Lovers Bar before dinner upstairs at the Michelin-star American restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday.
Then, end the night sipping mezcal at “Guadaladelphian” spot La Jefa, where everything on the menu is inspired by Guadalajaran flavors. And if you’re in town in the summer, swing by John’s Water Ice for what Philly old-timers call “wooder ice” on the way back to your hotel.
The Shortcut
There’s more to Philadelphia than tourist magnets like the Liberty Bell, the Rocky Statue, and cheesesteaks.
America’s former capital has one of the country’s most exciting food scenes, plenty of art, access to nature, and an unmatched sports culture.
This three-day itinerary from a local is designed to help steer visitors off the tourist path.
